Martin Hussey wrote:netKar will always have a small number of players because its learning curve is akin to slamming face first into awall, and there is generally not a great deal of help for new players.
I'm not going to go into why (i think) this happens because its not the thread and nobody cares anyway
You're right, after so many years I got finally a bit sick too of this speechless kind of manner NKPro drivers keeping their setups so secretly (no offence to all the guys ! ).
So here are some tipps and hints to set up a well balanced car that might help 'slower' drivers.., because I think they really aren't so much slower really, they just use imperfect setups.. :
We first simply should share our basic setups to newcomers or people, who have not the knowledge which points in the car setup are improtant and 'have' to look like.
I was driving years with an imperfect setup -especially with KS2- until Mika supplied me a basic setup and out of this one I noticed that spring stiffness should be always set in a way that the
HZ-values (car-body stiffness, it's shown at the bottom of the setup-screen) in front and rear are equal for best balance (always set front value 20 N/m less than the rear for KS2 then you get eqal HZ !),
that was the main thing that I did always wrong in my past setup.
Also set the km/h gaps between the gears s.th. like 35 km/h (difference gear 1 to 2), 32 km/h (difference gear 2 to 3) , 30 km/h (difference gear 3 to 4), 28 km/h (difference gear 4 to 5),
22 km/h (difference gear 5 to 6) to get a better balanced acceleration-power out of the gear box. Differencial just needs to stay not too high (coast) and (power) even less / quite half of that.., of course you will
need good suspension settings and also for the preload and rod (+-xx mm preload at rear is fine and (a bit more than) half of that value for the front +-xx mm preload is fine.., use/try even less values for
a quali-setup: -I found out I can then brake a little later for quali-lap, but for a longrun it is not stable/useable enough), then just set the rod in a way that you get most possilble less ride-high for the car
(less ride-high = more downfoce / in real also called 'ground-effect') without scarping on the ground too much -don't set the rear too much higher than the front.. to keep good balance, just 5-10 mm higher
at rear (for me).. -. For the wheels don't try too high camber values at front and just very less at rear / only real looking ones, like quite in reality... . I used -0.9 deg. to - 1.1 deg. at rear in the past, which
was much too high (it would result in less grip for this setup..). Wheel's toe need only a very low - value at the front and a three times higher + value (stabilizes rear) for the rear wheels with this setup.
Finally the aero (by adjusting difference between front and rear wing, etc.) needs to be set like in a way that this aero-calculator in the 'setup'-tab is something around "3.0% (rear)" for this kind of setup, that's
mainly everything you should follow (edit: regarding brake balance a value around 60.000-62.000 % is good for this setup, but I used quite the same values still before with my old style).
edit no2: I now -just today during my practice for the singapore event- discovered that the packers indeed play a big role also: I set them up in a simple way before, for the front axis that way I used before was already good, but I could much improve today as I experimented with the rear value in the "( xxx )". I won't reveal the way (values) I found out, ..do some testing and realise the car balance, you might recognize that it can quite much improve the car-handling and stability of the car's rear also.. .
Maybe some 'slower' drivers could try that things for themselfs out -just maintain all this described way of settings and you'll notice that you'll be faster-, I'm sure they will discover to be much more confident
with the car, because it will be probably much more balanced than with their previous setups.
Personally I gained 2-4 sec. ! each lap compared to my old setup-style [I'm using the new setup since the last KS2 Hungary event], by finally setting up the car balance in that described way.
I think it can be just an advantage for the races itself to have maybe some more quick guys on track (or isn't it.. ?), if they might discover some better balance and speed out of this tipps. I thought about
guys like PC Structures, who is a good driver I guess and could learn s.th. out of this to not struggle with his setups that very much anymore.
edit: "Unfortunately" I now removed some specfic values written before in my original posting* to not causing Mika to be angry about that (he conatct me after reading this help ), because much settings were
his own setup-work, he spend much testing to figure out.. to find the best way for him with KS2 (*like diff. setting, preload, camber and toe, athough I still used the same toe values before in my own setups as
in his setup, but to not reveal his whole kind of setup in an explicit and direct way, I now removed those values).
Last edited by M Waechter on Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:07 am; edited 10 times in total