Radiator Springs Racing

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    set up ks2

    davide zardin
    davide zardin
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    set up ks2 Empty set up ks2

    Post by davide zardin Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:39 pm

    chiedo delucidazioni sul set-up della ks2.

    in effetti so che che questa macchina va adattata al guidatore, ma fovveri sapere perchè con assetti a sospensioni morbidi con molte ali sono più performanti

    di assetti con sopensioni rigide e poche ali??

    ho fatto alcune prove a spa e ho notato che il mio pb che è segnato sul rank è stato fatto con una macchina rigida con 12 ala anteriore e 3 di posteriore, poi ho cercato di fare l'inverso e con una macchina più morbida ho notato di essermi avvicinato lo stesso al mio tempo.

    ho pensato che siccome è un circuito molto lungo con diverse situazioni di velocità e misto veloce il tempo fosse la capacita di perdere o guadagnare nei vari settori, poi ho fatto lo stesso per monza e al contrario il mio best e fatto con un assetto morbido.

    il punto è capire come lavora il fondo piatto di questa macchina, visto che piu è tenuto fermo e vicino al suolo e meno lavora, mentre con più spazio sembra lavorare meglio .

    quindi per porre la domanda le sospensioni e l'altezza della macchina come influiscono sul tempo?

    grazie dell'aiuto.

    ask clarification on the set-up of KS2.

    in fact I know that this machine is adapted to the driver, but fovveri know why structures with a soft suspension with lots of wings are the best performing

    of structures with rigid and sopensioni few wings?

    I did some tests at Spa and I noticed that my bp is marked on the ranking was done with a machine with 12 rigid wing front and rear of 3, then I tried to do the reverse with a car and I noticed softer that I approached the same in my time.

    I thought that since it is a very long circuit with different situations of mixed fast speed and the time was the ability to gain or lose in different areas, then I did the same to Monza and unlike my best and done with a soft structure.

    the point is to understand the working of the bottom plate of the machine, as more is held stationary and close to the ground and less work, and seems to work better with more space.

    then ask the question for the suspension and the height of the machine as they affect the weather?

    through aid.
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    M Waechter
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    set up ks2 Empty Re: set up ks2

    Post by M Waechter Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:50 pm

    I think the more you can go for a low ride high without scarping on the ground too much (losing speed) the better downforce you get.
    try 52 mm ride high in the rear that seems to be a good value. softer springs are more relaxed to drive, but too soft springs seem not to be fast. once you get used to stiff springs it's faster.. .
    try a softer spring value in front than in rear.., in the past I did the complete opposite with my setup like (115N -front-/ 95N -rear-) that was wrong, better try it the other way 'round + stiffer values then you get fine results Wink. also try realistic camber settings like they look on real cars, use only a low -value in rear, I used -0.900 in the past and that was much to much, a lower one offers more grip of course.
    [-An alien offered me his general KS2 base setup before the last event, so I recognized that at those mentioned points I was wrong with my old kind of setups. I won't reveal exact settings/values in all detail Wink.
    I gained 2-4 sec. by adjusting those things in comparison to my old setup style, so it's a huge improvement for me.]
    for spa try a mid downforce like 12 or 13 in the rear (290 km/h), I tried many values, but figured out that this seems to the best compromise there.

    Haven't tried in wet so far, maybe in wet softer springs and suspension is needed (+less rear ARB, higher diff. settings and so on).
    MikaRaymond
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    Post by MikaRaymond Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:46 pm

    spa is quite a difficult circuit to create a setup on. you have to decide between many wing angles, ride heights and suspension settings. with the way nkp works now, its best to have as much downforce as you can without being too slow on the straights. most people tend to run full downforce on all tracks due to the vmax being an average of 5/6kmh slower than using med or low wings, meaning you wont loose so much time along the straights, yet still be super fast through the mid section. martin is right - you should run the car as low as you can to get maximum downforce and grip.

    generally its not the best idea to aim for a certain ride height. there have been isntances before where ive created a soft (30mm) setup and hard (40mm) setup, whereby the soft car doesnt touch the ground and the hard setup does. this is due to the combination of springs, preload and rod settings. the best thing to do is find a spring setting you feel comfortable with (dont forget tyre temps!) and start fine-tuning with your preload and rod. you can change some bump / rebound settings to help this too, but try to keep things as balanced as you can - keep an eye on the "Hz" at the bottom of the screen. the more even they are, the more balanced the car will be.

    you need to raise the car a little in the wet to stop it aquaplaning. normally just adding some extra springs will do the trick, but if the car gets too hard youll spin the wheels too much.

    hope this helps.



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    M Waechter
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    Post by M Waechter Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:11 am

    rod and preload are the areas where I may fine tune my setup even more as well, so far I just keep a simple method (my normal method that I used already all the time in the past):
    preload= wanted ride high, then I adjust the rod until I get wanted ride high Smile. it's a simple/quick method but maybe not the best possible.. .

    are you using high wings even in spa mika ? Very Happy , ..I tried that, but it did not work for me, since top speed ends early at around 280 km/h if I remember the value right.
    so a mid value is better for me there (still some grip in corners + ok acceleration and top speed)
    MikaRaymond
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    Post by MikaRaymond Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:28 am

    thats the problem, you can run high downforce and risk getting overtaken along the straights or run lower downforce to try and prevent that from happening.

    as of now, i havent decided. im trying to fix these damn temps Very Happy
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    Andy Gagarin
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    Post by Andy Gagarin Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:05 pm

    How do you determine if the car is bottoming out too much? I keep lowering the car until the speed at the end of a straight starts to drop. Is there a better way?
    MikaRaymond
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    Post by MikaRaymond Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:21 pm

    i tend to not look at the ride height so much but more listen and feel. you know if youre bottomg out too much if the car is constantly scraping along the floor at high speed and you arent accelerating. you should always be accelerating until you hit top speed.

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